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Aydın Esen at the Verwegenheit Exibition

On October 15 I made my way to Beyoğlu in the evening rush hour, braving the traffic on Refik Saydam Caddesi, the road between Taksim Square and Şişhane that passes below the wall of the British...

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Tamerlano in Tashkent

The curtain rose to reveal an enormous sculpture of a horse’s head, equalling the height of the theatre and encased in a cube of LED-lit scaffolding. This was the opening night of Handel’s Tamerlano,...

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...And all that jazz

On Monday May 27 I made my way along Büyük Hendek Caddesi towards the Nardis Jazz Club, picking my through the throng of selfie-taking tourists taking advantage of the unique backdrop of a round,...

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He who kisses the joy as it flies…

On October 15 I made my way to Beyoğlu for the opening of an exhibition of paintings by the artist Rahşan Düren entitled Verwegenheit, which I believe means ‘audacity’ or ‘boldness’ in German. I had...

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Pure perfection

On October 16 I made my way to the Süreyya Opera House in Kadıköy to hear the violinist Bahar Büyükgönenç and the pianist Tutu Aydınoğlu play works by Zoltán Kodály, Johannes Brahms, Manuel de Falla,...

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Where to go for jazz in Turkey

ISTANBUL Nardis The longest-running jazz club in Turkey is Nardis, close to the Galata Tower. Opened in 2002 by guitarist and jazz mentor Önder Focan and his wife Zuhal, who runs Jazz Dergisi (‘Jazz...

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Nemrut with Don McCullin

Don, Catherine, Barnaby and I arrived in Adiyaman and were collected by Hüseyin Aydın from the Güneș Hotel. As we left the van for a quick kebab in the outskirts of town we were greeted by some...

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Nemrut with Don McCullin

Our Nemrut trip and slightly beyond. How we got there:  Hüseyin Aydin, the owner of Güneş Motel came to pick us up at the Adiyaman airport in a comfortable 6 seater van, took us to a kebab restaurant...

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The Clash of the Titans

On November 01 I went to the Cemal Reşit Rey Concert Hall in Harbiye to witness an unusual event – a jazz concert involving two orchestras playing simultaneously on the same stage. Although the event...

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Excellence in the cello department

On Sunday June 9 I went to the Atatürk Cultural Centre in Taksim Square to attend the last orchestral concert of the 52nd İKSV Istanbul Music Festival. This event featured the Tekfen Philharmonic...

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Ayda Demirci: Two

Two marks Ayda Demirci second solo exhibition at the Ambidexter Gallery (until December 28, 2024), presenting a series of abstract oil on linen and canvas works created in 2024. The title reflects the...

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Nemrut with Don McCullin

Don McCullin and his wife Catherine Fairweather take in the dramtic view at dawn as our new travelling companion and local Hüseyin Bey nonchalantly strolls, feeling very much at home on the fire altar...

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As the trees were turning in Cats Park…

On October 21 I walked down the hill from the Kedili Park (Cats Park) by the side of the Harbiye Military Museum to Maçka, and from thence down Süleyman Seba Caddesi to Beşiktaş, where I met up with...

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An archive for your thoughts

Archive signifies the closing of a chapter for Versus Art Project as they bid farewell to their iconic white cube gallery in Istanbul—a space distinguished by its apartment-like layout, soaring...

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Children’s Rain Call with the Colours of the Rainbow

The Istanbul-born Armenian conceptual artist Sarkis’s fifth solo exhibition, Children’s Rain Call with the Colours of the Rainbow, offers a playful exploration on collective healing. Inspired by...

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An archive for your thoughts

Archive signifies the closing of a chapter for Versus Art Project as they bid farewell to their iconic white cube gallery in Istanbul—a space distinguished by its apartment-like layout, soaring...

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Sine İçli’s Jittering Maps

‘making paste from rain/you may ask - how?/to dream long enough/for fermentation’ These lines, part of a poem by multidisciplinary artist Sine İçli, are positioned in the lower-left corner of the...

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A master of unease

Esra Özdoğan's solo exhibition The Ghost in the Machine, curated by Çağla Özbek, invites viewers into a world where the boundaries between life, death, and illusion are constantly shifting. The title,...

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Roll over Bartók

On December 15 I attended a jazz concert by Hungarian musicians at the Beşiktaş Naval Museum. The performers were the pianist and song-writer Peter Sárik (the group’s leader), double-bass player Tibor...

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The poetry of bathing

This tile panel was originally located in the men’s hot room. The eight rectangular tiles are adorned with Persian couplets in nasta‘līq script from a poem highlighting the hamam's significance in...

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