The Cornucopia team were delighted to recieve a letter from Janet Surman, a Cornucopia subscriber, about her recent trip to visit the painted village mosques of Denizli, which feature in the beautiful photographs by Ali Konalı and Tarkan Kutlu on the cover of issue 48. Sadly some of the mosques seem to be in desperate need of protection and repair, while others offer exactly the kind of rural adventure Cornucopia readers enjoy.
Here is Janet's letter:
"Following my fairly recent subscription to Cornucopia and having read and thoroughly enjoyed and appreciated the content of issue 48 my partner and I decided to visit and see the mosques for ourselves. How happy we are that we did.
We were left wondering just when Ali Konyalı and Tarkan Kutlu took their photographs as our first stop was at Kızılcabölük, Hanönü Camii, a mosque unfortunately rapidly falling into disrepair from lack of protection from the elements. Luckily the textile museum in the old school next door was well worth a visit.
The Hanönü Mosque in Kızılcabölük (1697-98). Janet Surman later told wrote that "it was partly boarded up and we climbed over the corrugated iron to get in... it is obvious that this one cannot survive long without some serious attention".
Photograph by Tarkan Kutlu, courtesy of Yapı Kredi Yayınları
Our second stop, at Akköy, proved much more fruitful. There we met with the imam and several of those who arrived for prayers and were enthusiastically engaged in conversation. The imam believed that more visitors were arriving as a result of reading Cornucopia; he was aware of the contents of this issue and would love to have a copy to show to his congregation and other interested locals. He said that if it were possible you could send him a copy to the Müftülük at Akköy.
The muezzin's platform at Akköy Mosque (1877 - 78)
Photograph by Tarkan Kutlu, courtesy of Yapı Kredi Yayınları
At Belenardıç the old mosque is the only mosque in the village although we were led by the article to think there would also be a new concrete one too. This one we gained entry to after tea and conversation in the kahvehane - what a mine of information the folk in kahvehanes all over Turkey are! And what a beautiful little mosque this one is.
Detail of painted wall at Belenardiç Mosque (1884)
Photograph by Tarkan Kutlu, courtesy of Yapı Kredi Yayınları
Boğaziçi Camii was another gem. We gained entry after a drive up into the mountains in search of the key which was held by the başkan of the vakıf founded to protect the mosque. All in all a great adventure was had in pursuit of viewing this dear little place. Local people in these small towns and villages are always incredibly kind and helpful and are prepared to go out of their way to facilitate the wishes of strangers.
Boğaziçi Mosque (1774 - 75)
Photograph by Tarkan Kutlu, courtesy of Yapı Kredi Yayınları
Kocaköy, nüfus (population) 300 was the place we stayed longest. We were greeted by the imam and one of the villagers, a farmer, and given a thorough 'tour' and history lesson followed by glasses of tea and philosophical conversation covering all manner of topics. Here they would most definitely appreciate to receive a copy of issue 48 if that is possible.
Our last call, on the way home to Ortaca, Muğla, was Yazır near Acıpayam. Another delightful place, a more sophisticated style of painting. Turkey has so many treasures and, it seems, too many to protect adequately. A number of the mosques we visited have sore need for loving care and attention which also means an ample supply of cash. Locals told us they have applied to the relevant authorities for assistance but that it's a long waiting game and they don't seem to have much hope of results.
Many thanks to all those at Cornucopia for drawing our attention to some of the lesser known gems to be found in this massively culturally rich country. No doubt we shall have future treks built around information we shall glean from you."
Many thanks to Janet for sharing her discoveries. We are sending copies of the magazine to the villages straight away.
Send feedback from your own trips based on articles in Cornucopia or our online guide to editor@cornucopia.net.